Our passion for tortillas is revealed in this startling statistic: Tortillas are second only to white bread in sales, according to the Tortilla Industry Association. Their popularity has brought lots more choices, and possibly some confusion. Are the refrigerated ones better than the shelf-stable options? Is corn or flour best?

Dairy vs. shelf Off-the-shelf and dairy-case tortillas are interchangeable and ready to eat (except for uncooked flour tortillas; see below). Tortillas are refrigerated soley to extend freshness and retard spoilage. In stores with high turnaround, tortillas off the shelf may actually be fresher than refrigerated ones. In all cases, check the use-by date and look for signs of mold.

Corn tortillas Made from yellow corn, corn tortillas are more durable and are best for cooking and frying. White corn tortillas are fluffier, more delicate and good for serving warm at the table. Both are gluten-free, low-fat and low-sodium.

Flour tortillas These are traditionally made from wheat flour, lard or vegetable oil, and salt. Nontraditional varieties include spinach, whole wheat, chipotle, low-carb, low-fat and nonfat. For a fresh-cooked effect, dry-fry refrigerated uncooked (raw) flour tortillas until blistered and tender.

Size and use The standard diameter of corn tortillas is 6 inches, although 3- to 4-inch ones are sometimes available. Flour tortillas come in 7- to 8-inch (standard), 6-inch and 10-inch sizes. Use standard-size tortillas for tacos and enchiladas, extra-large ones for wraps and smaller ones for fajitas and handheld bites.