Wine and food--the perfect marriage, right? It depends on the couple. Not every wine has what it takes to be blissfully happy with food. To be considered a food wine--that is, a wine that's versatile with a variety of foods--a wine should have ample acidity. In cooking, foods with high levels of acidity, such as lemons or tomatoes, are used to give proper balance to a recipe. The acidity level in wine plays a similar role when selcting one to serve with a dish.

Grape varieties vary naturally in their levels of acid. Varieties grown in cool climates retain more acidity, resulting in a wine that is crisp and slightly tart. Think of an apple, one that's crisp and juicy. This refreshing acidity is inviting; you want to enjoy another bite of the apple--or another glass or that wine.

For white wines that display such textbook acidity, look for Pinot Gris (also called Pinot Grigio), Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. As an example, a dry Riesling from France or Australia is particularly good with fresh crab. The wine's slight sweetness blends with the crab, while the wine's high acidity complements the crab's earthy flavors.

For red wines with higher acid, choose Pinot Noir and Sangiovese. Pinot Noir is perhaps the most versatile food wine. Duck is a great match with it; so is fish, such as salmon, ahi tuna and halibut. Sangiovese, the red grape that's used to make Chianti Classico, is good with dishes that feature tomato sauces or mushrooms.

Pinot Noir and Sangiovese also have less tannin than other red wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel. Tannin is bitter, and too much can add an unwanted element to your cuisine. Also, because Pinot Noir and Sangiovese generally have less alcohol and body than Cabernet Sauvignon, they won't overpower seafood, poultry or pasta as Cabernet Sauvignon would. Lower-acid wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, can be served with foods, but their big tastes require an equally deep-flavored food to meet their match.