I’ll never forget the first time I cooked kale. I purchased it with confidence, assuming it was similar to spinach or broccoli. After briefly steaming it, I took a bite and was shocked; the kale was tough, bitter and inedible. Years later, aware of kale’s healthful properties, I mustered the courage to try it again, this time with flavorful results. The key is learning how to cook bitter greens properly. Here are some tips for success.

Preparation Before use, remove stems from leafy greens, such as kale, mustard greens, turnip greens and collards, because they can be tough. For broccoli raab, trim about 1 inch from the stem.

Wash greens thoroughly in several changes of water. First, place the leaves in a salad spinner basket or colander; then place the basket in a large bowl. Fill it with cold water and swish. Let the greens soak for a few minutes, then lift out the basket. Repeat the process until no grit remains in the basin.

Precooking The additional step of precooking winter greens is well worth the effort because it tenderizes them and mellows their assertive flavors. To cook, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Drop in the greens, and stir them to completely immerse them in the water. Then cook them, uncovered, until tender. Allow 3 to 4 minutes cooking time for broccoli raab, 6 to 8 minutes for mustard greens and turnip greens, and 8 to 12 minutes for collards and kale. Drain the greens, and refresh them under cold running water. Squeeze out any excess moisture, then coarsely chop the greens. Greens can be cooked in advance; cover and refrigerate them afterwards for up to two days. One pound of leafy winter greens yields about two cups of cooked greens.

Serving suggestions Because winter greens have a robust flavor, you can generously season them with garlic and hot pepper. Traditional recipes often temper the bitterness of the greens by pairing them with fatty cured pork or cream. A much more healthful strategy is to combine bitter greens with starchy foods, such as potatoes, beans and pasta. For example, stir cooked, chopped greens into garlicky mashed potatoes or crushed cannellini beans. To make a basic side dish of bitter greens, cook minced garlic and a pinch of crushed red pepper in a little olive oil until fragrant but not browned; add chopped, cooked greens and heat through. Then moisten with a little chicken or vegetable broth, and brighten the flavors with a splash of vinegar or lemon juice.

Try winter greens in these recipes:

Pasta with Broccoli Raab and Cannellini Beans

Italian Braised Kale with Chicken

Salmon Curry with Mustard Greens